The oldest synagogue in the world, of Ezra, was what I next visited. Elijah, the prophet, had a room there where he used to go to pray. The room is carpeted and no one is allowed to enter it unless they remove their shoes. Moses also used to come there to pray. This legend is inscribed on a tablet in the synagogue. The Holy Ark contains very rare Sefer Torahs - one in particular - it is made of deer skins and is light brown in color, and is over two thousand years old. One scroll is over nine hundred years old and there are many others which are placed in receptacles. The interior of the synagogue is decorated with very ancient inlaid wood and fine glazed tiling. A double reading desk of white marble is in the center covered with an ancient cloth. The Holy Ark is marvelously decorated and contains about ten or twelve scrolls all encased in rare silver receptacles which are embossed works of art. A Mr. Schullman of New York offered ten thousand dollars for the real old Torah, the keeper informed me. I was told that hardly, if ever, they get a minyun together in that synagogue for prayer, except for jahrzeit. This builiding is very substantial and does not show its age.
The Egyptian Industrian Exposition was pointed out to me and I visited it. The exhibits show great progress of the nation's industries. There is a large exhibit of fine pottery, glazed ware, art goods manufactured by a Jewish firm, silk goods, large assortment of cotton fabrics, leather goods of variety, bronzes, rattan ware, furniture and all kinds of high grade merchandise. I made some purchases there which I thought very reasonable.
Being our Sabbath, I attended services at the Spanish Synagogue. This building had the appearance of a fine theatre. The outside stairs are covered with carpets. Upon entering one's attention is first drawn to the chandeliers which are made of a dark material and in the shape of a Mogen Dovid. The Holy Ark has a very beautiful velvet curtain on which is an elegant design. The reading desk is in the rear and is of marble. Large marble columns adorn the interior. The seats are in circular form and the gallery, for women, is enclosed and decorated. It is beyond me to describe the fine architecture of this synagogue. It is very pleasing to the eye - and has a dignified atmosphere. The service differs entirely from that of the regular synagogue - I could hardly follow it.
I had been previously told to go to the Health Office. I inquired of several of the people at the synagogue but could not make them understand me, finally one gentleman approached and said he could speak English. I asked the direction of him and he replied that he couldn't accompany me there but he would have another gentleman go with me. We walked several blocks and arrived at the Health Office where I gave my name and was told it was O.K. This man then motioned me to follow him which I did. He led me up two flights of stairs, opened a door, and I beheld there a table set with food as for a banquet - different types of fish, poultry, vegetables, fruit and wine. His wife and two children awaited him. He placed his hands upon the heads of the children and blessed them. There were two other ladies present whom I presume were relations. I gave him my card and he introduced me to his wife. He then poured the wine and pointing to me to do as he did we made the blessings. He then motioned me to follow him into the hallway where we washed then returned to the dining room. He took two loaves of flat bread and said the blessings and I did likewise. We then sat down and enjoyed the delicious meal. He then led me into what I would term a rich man's parlor - the floor was covered with rich Oriental rugs, the furniture was beautiful and on the wall were family oil paintings. He then noticed my Masonic pin and I showed him my Masonic coins. He left the room for a minute and returned with similar coins. He was elated. All this was without a conversation between us because he could not speak my language. I tried to express my appreciation to him - I thanked him in my own way and bid him and his family good-bye. I could see that they were as pleased with my visit as I was with visiting them.
On May 4th I awaked at 5:00 A. M. packed my grips, took an early breakfast, settled with the hotel clerk, went to the depot and boarded a train for Alexandria. Upon arriving at Alexandria I immediately went to the Hotel de la France, where I was forced to put up with a room which was not as nice as I would have liked it to be. While I was here I visited the largest synagogue Orient, which is an imposing building. Upon entering the gate a broad walk leads to a great flight of stone stairs leading to the entrance to the building. This synagogue seats perhaps two thousand or over. Large marble columns support the ceiling, and the floors are of marble. It does not have the usual Bima - only a reading desk. Above the Holy Ark were suspended from twenty-five to thirty silver lamps for lights - some of which were most beautifully designed. The keeper opened the Holy Ark for me and I saw over twenty-five Torahs there, many of were encased in solid silver and some in fine wood. There were a number of benches for men, and a gallery for women.
In all, the city of Alexandria is very beautiful.
The next morning I arose and after a light breakfast bid good-bye to the Orient. A cab took me to the docks where I underwent the examination and received the health certificate, paid the fee, and got on the S. S. General Metzinger. I had a first class compartment and everything on the ship was as one would wish, and without further incident we landed in Marseillaise at 10:00 A.M. on May 10th. It being Sunday, and a special holiday, there were no trains. The cab driver wanted me to pay four dollars for the trip from the docks to the hotel Tel Aviv - a Jewish Hotel - but knowing that the law allowed the driver one half dollar only for this trip I refused to pay him what he requested. However, not wishing to be detained I settled with him for Two dollars.
Marseillaise is a very attractive city. It has nice parks, zoological gardens, beautiful fountains with statues, boulevards, and everything to make a city beautiful.
At 10:30 A.M. on May 11 I left Marseillaise, got into my compartment which would compare favorable with a first class pullman, for Paris. On the trip I observed that France is a very rich country and very picturesque with its grapevines growing all over the mountains in terraces for many miles, and the land well cultivated. I passed through the cities of Avington, Valencia, Lyons and Dijon.
At 10:30 o'clock on the same date as above I arrived in Paris. I rested that night at the Grand Hotel in a very nice room luxuriosly furnished. After a good night's rest I went sightseeing and viewed Dame de Victories, Eylise, Halls de Louvre with its wonderful master paintings, Palais Royal, Plasa de Carousel where the guillotine did its work, Luxenburgh, Notre Dame, Plasa de la Bastille, also many other places of interest and historic value. I visited many fashionable stores and shops.
At 8:00 P.M. I bid adieu to Paris, and as the train had no sleeper I was very tired and weary upon reaching Cherbourg at 5:30 A.M. on May 13th. The automobile bus took me to the International Hotel - a Jewish Hotel. At Cherbourg, which is a great shipping port, I went to the health department, received a certificate and had the visa stamped, sent a radiogram to my son, got my baggage, boarded the S. S. Majestic and had a very nice cabin and the best of accomodation. Without further incident I saw the Statue of Liberty in the New York harbor at 6:30 o'clock on the morning of May 19th.
My children met me at the docks and my happiness was then complete. We remained in New York four days and had a very good time, then took the boat to Albany where we boarded the train and reached dear old Chicago again. Thank God.