Pesach was celebrated in the real old fashioned way. There were one hundred forty-seven guests at the Hotel. These people were from all parts of the world. Small family tables and long banquet tables were set on two floors, and the different nations and parties grouped themselves and each gave the Seder Service in their own familiar way, but Mr. Amdusky was the leader, and his children and himself sang the service. The service was very impressive and beautiful. There was an abundance of the best food, wine, and fruit. I shall always remember the Pesach I spent in Jerusalem - Oh how much it was enjoyed.
During Pesach I went to the great synagogue, which was overcrowded. In honor of Sir Herbert Samuels, the High Commissioner, who was present, a canopy decorated with flags and flowers was erected. An extra carpet was laid for him to walk upon. Chief Rabbi Kook was also present. We Americans were given preference by being seated in the front. This service also was very impressive. After the service we returned to the Amdusky Hotel where a banquet was given in honor of Sir Herbert Samuels and Rabbi Kook. All the Americans were invited. Sir Herbert Samuels spoke in English and it was translated to the audience in Hebrew. I placed my booklet the "Shield of David" before Sir Herbert Samuels. He looked at me and I asked for an audience to which he replied he would be pleased, but I was to make my appointment with his private secretary. I aso spoke with Chief Rabbi Kook whom I also desired to see privately and who told me he would be pleased to see me any evening.
Asherim Mamre was our next stopping place. After riding an hour and a half through roads which looked as though they were not often traversed, our automobile stopped at the foot of a hill. We walked up the hill a distance and the guide led the way to a stone wall. We walked through an iron gate to a passageway which led to the Tree of Mamre. This tree was enclosed by a stone wall on top of which was an iron fence. Old and gnarled the branches and trunk are supported by iron props to keep them from breaking off. The tree looks its age. But a few hundred feet way fron the tree is a Russian building which spot Abraham's tent stood on. It was under this tree of Mamre that Abraham and Sarah were told that they would have a son - Sarah laughed and the angels chided her. Here I was walking on the land that the Angels of God tread, and here where were Abram and Sarah his wife - the beginning of Our History. From the branches of trees near-by I took some twigs also some flowers which grew near the fence, as mementos.
On the outskirts of the New Jerusalem a splendid building surrounded with a garden and Shrubberies, nice walks, was the Bezallel School. Upon climbing a narrow stairway from the outside, the guide ushered me into the showrooms where were exhibited their own manufacture of silverware, Jewelry, paintings, rugs, and other kinds of art craft. Downstairs, after paying the fee, I was shown the Museum. Here I saw beautiful paintings, antiques, of great interest, and many articles of interest which would take too long to enumerate.
Through mountain roads and wilderness, through passages wich looked as though they had never been traveled over, where there were no inhabitants for miles, we approached the Dead Sea. A few shacks and old tents owned by the Arabs were thereabout. A few Jewish travelers were in bathing, men and women, in Adam's costume. It is claimed that this heavy salt water covers the destroyed cities of Sodom and Gemorah. The Bedouians have their homes on the other side of the Dead Sea.
It was with difficulty that the chauffeur found the road to the River Jordan, for the reason that the land being low, the tide of the sea covers it with a thick layer of the salt and this erases any trace of a road. We reached the River Jordan and stopped at a very interesting and beautiful spot. The river was about two hundred feet wide where we were with trees and shrubs on both sides. The arabs have a refreshment stands with tables and benches - very much in appearance like our picnic grounds. We here unpacked our lunch and enjoyed the drinking water which was very refreshing and so much superior to the water of Jerusalem. I cut a few twigs from the trees as mementos.
We next headed for Jericho. The sun was very hot on the desert and these roads also were difficult to cross. At the foot of the mountain, inhabited by Arabs who sold fruit and who lived in shacks and stalls, I saw but one respectable looking building in the City which was surrounded by a mud wall. I was glad to leave this dirty looking place of early Jewish history. What a time poor Moses must have had leading the Children of Isreal through such a country.
Mosque of Omar! - or called Harem - "The August Sanctuary". This is the original temple era. It covers a space of about 145,000 square meters and the principal building is the Mosque of Omar which is situated against the wall. It is a large building and will accomodate thousands of Arabs for prayers. Innumerable costly oriental rugs lay on the floor. An addition has recently been built and this also is being decorated beautifully.
The Dome of the Rock is a wonderful edifice, octagon in shape, and surrounded with a large dome. It has four entrances, and the interior has panels inlaid of the finest tiles.
The Arabs have repaired a great number of the relics of King Solomon's time, and keep everything in good condition. French soldiers police the place so that nothing is disturbed. Upon leaving through the gate I noticed a Mogen Dovid - or Shield of David - in one of the arches, and on the outside of the gate were two lions cut out of solid stone and on top of the Arch. This is the emblem of the tribe of Judah. Massive iron doors at the entrance show evidence of time worn and workmanship of olden times.
The sepulchre of Jesus! The entrance to this cave was also lined with beggars. The guide was handed two candles by the keeper, and after lighting them we went down a flight of stairs. I noticed a great number of small lights suspended from the ceiling, statues, crucifixes, and beautiful ancient art paintinigs of Saint Marie, the mother of Jesus, but the highest works of all were the paintings of Jesus. These pictures were encased in solid gold. The most priceless work was sent from the Russian government, and it is a painting of Jesus in a gold frame set with diamonds. In this cave is work of art over thousands of years old - rare candlesticks, fine draperies, statues, and a marble receptacle in which they claim Jesus was buried.
My attention was next drawn to Share Zedeck Hospital - a pleasant building on a large space of ground overlooking a fine landscape. It is on the outskirts of the city, built of stone, and surrounded by an attractive garden. Mr. Marks, the Superintendent, invited me to his private office which was luxuriously furnished with many antiques. Next I was conducted to the kitchen which I found a model in cleanliness, then the operating room which was well equipped and light, and then into the drug store and the womens' and childrens' quarters. This is a most desirous building.